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The
nature of the thing:
What's the difference between a rod or spreader
bar hammock and a 'soft'
hammock, er...the wooden bars. The rods hold it open which makes
this type (appear) easy to get in and out of with the added advantage
that when they're empty they still look good rather than a length
of fabric curiously strung up between trees in the garden.
Almost
all
rope
hammocks
like the one shown, come with spreader bars. When a fabric
hammock has
spreade bars, the width of the fabric is pretty well restricted
to the width of the rod, although with gathering, the fabric can
be wider than the rod and still work. The largest size in a rod
style is therefore a double. Once a spreader rod exceeds about 1.5m
in length the hammock becomes a rather cumbersome piece of kit,
not easily conveyed!
How
to use them: These
are designed to be lain in from end to end, that is, head at one
spreader bar and feet at the other. The secret therefore to hanging
the rod style is to keep it tight. Hanging it in too short a space
or with too much slack on the rope has the effect of bending the
occupant in half at a right angle looking directly across at his
feet. This is neither comfortable nor good for the back.
Suspension
height: As the occupant's weight
is distributed by the rods these don't need so much height to hang
in. Generally 1.25m is sufficient and closer to the ground if children
are to use it.
Suspension
width: When
the fibre used is cotton, always allow for stretch. So if the full
length from end to end is 3m allow another 0.5m distance between
each of the fastening points. Join to the fastening points using
rope (preferably nylon) and gradually tighten the rope as required.
After initial use the stretch will stop at a maximum size.
How
to get in:
Stand half-way along, turn around and place
your bottom about one-third to one-half way across the...this
is where the tricky part comes in. The minus side of the rod design
is it's narrowness. If you look at the number of ropes or 'brassos'
coming from the body to the rope or metal ring at the top there
are always far fewer with a rod than a soft hammock. Fewer brassos
means greater 'tippiness'. Rods have a great tendency to tip you
out when you try to get in, unless you know the secret of how to!
Balance your bottom in the middle, sit your weight down with your
feet squarely on the ground and then slowly lift your feet in and
at the same time swivel and lie your head back so you are lying
evenly in the centre. It's like riding a bicycle, very simple when
you keep your balance centred.
The
nature of the thing:
String or Mexican
hammocks
are like nets. There are no wooden bars and they are designed so
that you lie across the way and not end to end - the opposite
way to the above design. These nets are like concertinas so that
your body acts as the 'rod' to keep them open. Hold one side up
and let it drop open - you'll see that the net is at least the length
of your body and probably a good deal more. When you lie in these
there is ample room on each side of you and no chance of tip out.
How
to use them: Don't lie in
these end to end, lie in them diagonally. When you do so you are
then lying against the weave and the effect is that the net stetches
out precisely to your length and the weave goes tight beneath you,
supporting your back firmly. If you want to sleep the night in one
of these then lie diagonally across it and your back will be level
and you can roll from side to side in your sleep comfortably and
safely.
These
are designed to be slept in like a sling. If you lie end to end,
not only will you be wrapped up like a sausage but as you're lying
with the weave instead of against it, the net does not open out
to support you. In effect, the weight of your feet and you head
cause ridges. Either a ridge of net appears between your feet or
at the back of your head.
This
design is incredibly strong and as long as the fixing points are
sound and you have the space, there seems to be no limit on the
number of people that can climb into one. Depending upon the size,
7 occupants is quite common - not to mention the occasional Volkswagon
Beetle!
The
only minus point to these is that as they are made of a fine string
in a fairly loose weave they can catch in buttons and buckles or
can be torn with sharp objects. It is best not to wear shoes in
this style (or any hammock if you can help it). They are also not
designed for impact so jumping into one of these off the top of
the wardrobe will definitely result in a hole. Lie in them ordinary
fashion and don't leave them out at the mercy of the weather and
they should last indefinitely.
Suspension
height: Fixing points need to be
at approximately 2m in height to avoid bottoming-out. Remember for
multiple occupancy use the closer the ends are together and the
steeper the sides, the more roll-together ensues.
Suspension
width:
As
they aren't lain in end to end, these should not be hung tight.
You need to leave a drop between the highest and lowest point of
about 1m. Hanging distance is not as vital with these as with rods,
but height is of the utmost importance. In fact, if you don't mind
having very steep sides and have the requisite amount of height,
the ends can be fixed as close as 2m apart - although this won't
work for multiple occupancy. Generally, 3m or 3.5m is a good span
for one of these.
How
to get in:
Standing about half way along take an edge
plus a handful of net in either hand. Open it out a little. Turn
around and sit down. Pull it up behind you and lean back, at the
same time draw your legs up and hook your heels into the edge. Stretch
you legs out straight and you'll be lying flat and totally supported.
Tip:
When it isn't tied up, always pick up this style by the brasso loop.
This will avoid the spaghetti produced when you collect it by the
middle and the 150 or so nylon brasso strings become enmeshed.
Washing:
always
before washing either take the nylon brasso by the loop end and
knot the brasso through itself or tie elastic bands down the length
of the brasso to prevent it from tangling through itself and becoming
hopelessly knotted.
Handwash
in cool water, or place in a wash bag or pillow slip and machine
wash on a gentle, cool temperature cycle.
Dry
by hanging it up and stretching it open with a cane. It will have
shrunk during washing but with use will stretch back to its former
size again.
If
made of cotton these will last if you don't leave it out of doors
when not in use.
The
nature of the thing:
Fabric
hammocks come in all shapes and sizes and fabrics. They are usually
made from cotton and we are in the process of transferring our entire
range to fair
trade organic cotton hammocks.
There is also the all-weather
hammock,
which is made from a yarn that is resiliant to sun and rain and
more easily washable. Whatever the fabric, these hammocks are more
akin to the string hammock than the rod in design. Note there are
more brasso ropes to these than with a rod but not as many as with
the string style. The fabric varies in width from single to multiple
occupancy sizes and will generally be wider than any single rod
but nowhere near as wide as the net described above.
Many
fabric
hammocks
are 'soft' rather then rod - and are designed to be lain in diagonally.
If there are no wooden bars that's because there aren't meant to
be. Given the tightness of the weave, they don't have the same stretch
as the string style but they are still not designed to be lain in
end to end. Lie in one of thse end to end and it will enclose you
like a baguette, you can't see out and your back is rounded and
unsupported.
When
you lie diagonally your body holds the fabric open and the weight
of your head at one edge of the fabric counter-balances the weight
of your feet at the other. So the fabric is stretched tight and
flat and your back is beautifully supported. As you are in effect
held in a sling, there is no danger of topple-out and with ample
fabric to support you on either side you can roll from side to side
in your sleep quite safely. This has to be the most relaxing piece
of garden furniture available, ideal for relaxation and stress reduction!
The fabric
soft hammock style is a good choice for children as they have the
width to contain a few small bodies when they are rough and tumbling
but the material is not prone to snagging as with an open weave.
Suspension
height: Your suspension points
need to be at a height of about 1.5m - 1.85m but this always depends
the size you are using and personal preference as to how close to
the ground you like to be. Again, these should not be hung tight,
they need a generous drop to allow the fabric to be stretched open.
A drop of about 1m, depending upon size, from the highest point
of suspension to the lowest point is good.
Suspension
width: Suspension width depends
upon the size. Some soft single sizes can be suspended in as little
as 2.9m of width. A double will require approximately 3.5m of width
to comfortably hang in with allowance for increase of size after
initially stretching.
Washing:
always
before washing knot the brasso through itself or tie elastic bands
down the length of the brasso to prevent it from tangling through
itself.
Handwash
in cool water or place in a wash bag or pillow slip and machine
wash on a gentle, cool temperature cycle.
Dry by
hanging it up and stretching it open with a cane. The fabric will
have shrunk during washing but with use will stretch back to its
usual size again.
Every
hammock is for use both indoors and outdoors but if you have a cotton
hammock, it will last much, much longer if you don't leave it out
of doors when not in use.
Hammock
Stand
The
nature of the thing:
These are a great way to suspend a hammock if you have no
trees, walls, posts, gazebos or even the odd pergola. Our Adagio
hardwood stand is made up of a base bar, 2 'arms' or uprights and
4 feet (short pieces of wood on which the stand balances). These
connect together in a metal 'boot' which sockets into which the
wood slides.
Suspension
height & width: Most
hammock
stands are adjustable, either in height or width and
often in both. Our Adagio hammock stand adjusts in width by sliding
the boots out towards the ends of the base bar and in height by
means of sliding the metal 'cuffs' onto which the hammock hooks,
up and down the uprights or arm bars. This means that you aren't
restricted to any one hammock.
If you already have a
hammock (but never had anywhere to hang it) and have finally
concluded the only way you're ever going to use it is with a stand,
you will need to measure your hammock carefully. Remember, a fabric
hammock without spreader bars to hold it open needs about 1.5m -
1.85m (about 5 feet) of height to hang in. Measuring this type of
hammock end to end will not allow for the height needed. Soft hammocks
do not hang 'tight' like spreade bar hammocks, they need to hang
loosely with a drop of a couple of feet. They need height so that
with the 'drop' of fabric and your weight in the hammock, you're
bottom doesn't scrape along the ground.
Moveability:The
beauty of a hammock stand is also that it can be moved around the
garden into the sun or shade so you aren't limited to tying your
hammock up to that lime tree where you'll covered in insect waste
-although of course you can if you want to...
Care
& Storage: Whether your hammock stand is made
out of metal or wood, it's a good idea to treat it with some TLC
now and again. Metal stands, such as our Chair Stand should be oiled
in the joints just to reduce the occurance of rust should the rain
get in. Wooden hammock stands need to be oiled with a lubricant
such as teak oil and in fact we enclose a bottle of this with our
stands. This keeps the wood moist and the result is twofold. Firstly,
it avoids the appearance of surface cracks or 'checking' in the
wood and secondly it brings the wood back to a beautiful lustre
if it has been 'greyed' down by the weather.
Because most hammock stands are
assembled from a number of compents, they can be easily disassembled
for winter and stored in the shed.
The
nature of the thing:
Hammock
chairs,
or hanging chairs vary in style from canvas deck-chair
arrangements with armrests, headrests,drink-holders and foot slings
to simple nets hanging from one bar. They all have one thing in
common, however, which is that they all hang from a single point.
This makes life a great deal easier if you only have one tree.
When suspended they also take up much less horizontal space than
a hammock and so are ideal for additional seating indoors.
Suspension
height: Most hanging hammock chairs
need at least 2.2m to hang in. There's really no way around that
- much less and your bottom will be scraping the floor. Also, allow
about 1m behind the chair to allow for spinning. As always allow
for some stretch with a cotton chair.
Your
cotton chair will last if you don't leave it out of doors when not
in use.
Snap-Hooks:
These work well when used between trees or
open beams, a pergola, gazebo or hammock posts. Use them with nylon
rope. They hinge and can be opened to provide a hook then snap shut
to hold the brasso eye fast even when swinging.
Coil
the rope around the tree etc and either knot it into a final loop
through which the snap-hook can pass or leave a tail and knot your
snap-hook onto the end of this. Use the snap-hook as a connector
between the brasso loop and the rope. This saves wear on the suspension
loop and means you can put up and take down really easily leaving
the rope and snap-hooks out.
Eye-Bolts:
Use these
when you're fixing into wood or with a masonry plug into solid stone
or concrete. Screw these in to the requisite depth and as the eye
is closed use a snap-hook again to connect the brassp loop to the
eye-bolt. If added rope is needed tie the rope between the eyebolt
and snap-hook rather that the brasso loop and snap hook as this
will save wear on the brasso.
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